Les Écureuils - Aosta Valley
No designer chic here, but a hard-working farm, at the end of a long mountain road, specialising in goat's cheese. In the 14th century, the building was a half-way house between the valley and the high alpine pastures for grazing animals. Now the bedrooms are quaint and homely with patterned walls, knotted pine, linen window-hangings and photos showing the farm in different seasons. Showers are private but wcs are shared. In the bistro-like dining room, crochet-trimmed shelves carry books and ornaments. Excellent food is presented in a stylish, rustic fashion with everything, apart from the bread and wine, home-grown or homemade. (There's a little farm shop, too, where you can stock up on goat's cheese if you haven't overdosed already.) Outside the garden is steep but the odd chair or bench on the small terraces makes a marvellous place to sit and absorb the glorious views across the Valle d'Aosta. Three generations of the family live here. They are quiet, friendly and immensely committed to what they do; given time, they'll talk to you about their way of life.
